Wave Action and Sand Transport
The beach is a delicate balance between the amount of sand supplied to build out the beach, and the wave energy eroding it away. In addition to bringing sand back to our beaches, we need to develop systems to ensure that the sand is retained on our coast and doesn’t just wash out to sea. To design an effective system requires a detailed knowledge of how our local wave climate, seafloor bathymetry, and shoreline features work together to move sand alongshore, offshore, and onshore.
note this section is still under construction
Wave Climate of SoCal and San Clemente
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Where do our waves come from?
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How are these waves changed as they approach our coast?
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How does nearshore bathymetry affect waves?
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How does shoreline angle affect the waves?
Sand Transport by Waves in San Clemente
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How do waves transport sand?
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How do waves move sand along San Clemente's coast?
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What happens our sand that is washed offshore in the winter?
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Why does it seem like erosion is accelerating?